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Thursday, November 8, 2012

No Pain, No Gain....?? Not in our Book...

Force Free Dog Training - No Choke, No Prong, No Pain!- original article by Niki Tudge and Angelica Steinker

Effective training procedures lay the foundation for an animal’s healthy socialization, capacity for learning and will help prevent behavior problems. Since a wide variety of equipment and tools are commonly used when training pets and in their daily activities, the pet-owning public needs to be aware of the potential problems and dangers some equipment may pose.

Specifically, the use of collars and leads that are intended to apply constriction, pressure, pain or force around a dog’s neck (such as ‘choke chains’ and ‘prong collars’) should be avoided. Consistent with their commitment to ‘force-free’ training and pet care methods, the Pet Professional Guild, the Association of Force Free Dog Training and Pet Care Professionals (PPG), does not support the use of choke and prong collars and, rather, recommends the use of flat buckle collars, head halters, harnesses and other
types of control equipment that are safer for the animal and the handler.

As more research accumulates on the hazards of choke and prong collars and more data is compiled documenting the damage these types of collars can cause distinguished veterinarians world-wide are joining the discussion and are calling for professional dog trainers to commit to eliminating choke and prong collars from their training programs. Niki Tudge, founder and president of the PPG, states “training should be conducted in a manner that encourages animals to enjoy training and become more confident and well-adjusted pets.” According to Dr. Soraya V. Juarbe-Diaz, “mistakes are inherent in any type of learning -- if I continually frighten or hurt my students when they get something wrong, eventually they will be afraid to try anything new and will not want to learn from me any longer. What most surprises me about the use of collars that choke (i.e. tighten around the neck so it is painful to swallow, difficult to breathe and could damage the tissue underlying the collar) is that people think it is OK to use them in animals, whereas they would recoil in horror if teachers in schools were to use them in human pupils. We use force, pain and fear to train animals because we can get away with it, in spite of sufficient scientific data in both humans and dogs that such methods are damaging and produce short term cessation of behaviors at the expense of durable learning and the desire to learn more in the future. You can go with so-called tradition or you can follow the ever expanding body of evidence in canine cognition that supports teaching methods that encourage a calm, unafraid and enthusiastic canine companion."

Psychological and Behavioral Effects

"Using punishment to stop behaviors is not new. Notice I say ‘stop’ rather than ‘teach’ – I can stop any behavior, but I am more interested in teaching my students, animal or human, to choose the behavior I want them to perform because they can trust me, because I do not hurt them and they are safe with me, and because the outcome is something they enjoy.”
- Dr. Soraya V. Juarbe-Diaz. DVM, DACVB, CAAB

 “Choke chains, prong collars and other devices like it are intended to cause pain or discomfort. They operate on the principle of making the dog experience pain when they perform some unacceptable behavior. Any kind of training operating on this principle
suffers from various pitfalls.”
- James O’Heare., Professional Animal Behavior Consultant.


Notable veterinarian, Dr. Karen Overall, VMD, PhD, Diplomate ACVB offers the following guidance;
“Prong collars are subject to all of the same criticisms as are chokers. Furthermore, they can do incredible damage to the dog’s neck since they can become imbedded in the skin if the dog learns to over-ride them. Most dogs learn to over-ride these collars and people who use them often voluntarily comment that they need to use some degree of pain to control their animals under some circumstances. These collars, if sharpened - as is often the case, are intended to employ pain to encourage the dog to attend to the person. If left unsharpened, these collars are intended to provide more uniform pressure than a choke collar. Oddly, prong collars were intended to be a safer improvement over choke collars. That’s not how it has worked. For aggressive dogs, this the uniform pressure response - especially if accompanied by pain - can worsen their aggression, and for dominantly aggressive dogs, this response can not only worsen their aggression, but endanger the
client.”

Choke or prong collars are not recommended “as they can easily injure the delicate butterflyshaped thyroid gland that sits just below the larynx and in front of the trachea. These collars can also injure the salivary glands and salivary lymph nodes on the side of the face underneath both ears.”
- Dr. Jean Dodds. Respected veterinarian and thyroid expert.

While precise data is not yet complete, there are many documented cases of injuries to dogs caused by the use of choke/prong collars. These injuries include, but are not limited to, soft tissue damage, eye problems, strangulation (in some cases leading to death), tracheal/esophageal damage and neurological problems. Many vets have treated such injuries and are aware of resulting deaths.

From a strictly physical perspective, Jim Casey, Mechanical Engineer, explains that, “A dog can pull against its leash/collar with more force than its own weight and can exert even more force if it gets a running start before it reaches the end of its leash. Considering a typical flat collar, an 80 pound dog can cause a contact force of approximately 5 pounds per square inch (psi) to be exerted on its neck. This force increases to 32 psi if a typical nylon choke collar is used and to an incredible 579 psi per prong if a typical prong collar is used. This represents over 100 times the force exerted on the dog’s neck compared to a typical flat collar greatly increasing the possibility of damage or injury to the dog. For this very reason, many countries with a progressive approach to pet safety and health, such as Austria and Switzerland, have already
banned prong collars.

Were people to understand more about how dogs communicate and how these collars work, they would appreciate that responses other than pain and pressure are more desirable for changing an animal’s behavior. These collars are no substitute for early
intervention and the treatment of problem behaviors. For every situation which clients claim control is provided by a prong collar, a head collar is the better, safer and more humane choice, although it requires some investment of time to use correctly. Some dogs
are fitted with prong or spike collars because they make the dog look ‘tough’. The problem, here, does not lie with the dog.

"These devices (choke and prong collars), when they work, do so to the degree that
they hurt. With the advent of modern methods and tools they are irrelevant.”
    - Jean Donaldson, Bestselling author and dog behaviorist

Thursday, September 6, 2012

Wags & Wiggles staff come home with Wins at USDAA Agility Western Regionals!

Laurie Zurborg - Founder, Romi Hirayama - Tustin Facility Manager, Nicole Wakida - Tustin Trainer, & Tammy Wilson - RSM Trainer all headed to Prunedale, CA to compete in the USDAA Agility Western Regional Championship 08/31/12-09/04/12.

If you aren't familiar with USDAA, you can find out more information here: http://usdaa.com/ .   The Regional events are a lot of fun!  They are also important as you can earn Byes into different rounds.  This regional event was held by The Bay Team.  They hosted an amazing show!  Everything ran smoothly and in a timely manner.  They really did an AWESOME job!

Laurie Zurborg & Gumbo had a rare situation in Performance Speed Jumping Finals....Gumbo tied for 1st place!  When there is a tie, they do what is called a "run-off".  Both dogs get to run the same course again and whichever dog gets the faster time, gets 1st place.  In this case, Gumbo gave it his all and WON Performance Speed Jumping Finals!!!  Watch Gumbo's Blazing fast run with Laurie below!



That's not all for Laurie....Laurie & her young Border Collie Gem also made a mark at the Regional!  3 year old baby girl Gem showed her heart and placed 3rd in Grand Prix Finals in the 22" Class.  The 22" Class is a VERY competitive height and little Gemmie gave it her all!  The weekend before, Laurie & Gem also earned the ADCH (Agility Dog Champion) Title in USDAA!  Watch Gem's amazing run with Laurie below!


                                     


I was quite surprised with my little girl Wink. (2 1/2 year old Norrbottenspets).  She placed 2nd in the Performance Grand Prix Local Qualifier!  I was shocked and SO happy!  We rarely ever make placements, even if she runs clean.  So this was a big deal for us!  I was happy that she ran clean, but then overjoyed when I saw she got 2nd! Watch Winks run with Romi below!


                                    

Nicole Wakida had an amazing weekend with her 4 year old Cavalier, Ruby.  They placed 2nd in Performance Speed Jumping Finals AND Performance Grand Prix Finals! WOW!  Ruby really gave it her all and it showed!  Watch Ruby's runs with Nicole below!

Rubys Performance Speed Jumping

Rubys Performance Grand Prix


One of the really fun things about USDAA is their tournament classes.  I love doing the TEAM events.  If your dog is running in Championship, there are 3 dogs to each team.  If your dog is running in Performance, there are 2 dogs to each team.  Each dog runs the 5 standard and non-standard classes.  These classes include: Standard, Jumpers, Gamblers, Snooker & Pairs.  You accumulate points as a Team and place based on which team has the highest points.  You can choose your teammates and even make up a team name!   At this Regional, Me & Twister the Mini Eskimo were teamed up with Nicole & Cobalt the Mini Aussie and Tammy & her young BC, Nick.  Our team name was "Naughty, Naughtier, & Naughtiest!" My favorite part of TEAM is doing the relay course.  This run is also worth the most points and all dogs run the same course but different parts of it!  Usually they run it last and everyone is watching and cheering!   Watch below for Cobalt, Twister & Nicks Relay Run!





Huge Congrats to everyone!!!




Monday, July 23, 2012

Introducing 2 new members of the Wags Family!

Introducing 2 new members of the Wags Family!  Laurie & I picked up our new Border Collie puppies on Friday the 13th!  They are 9 weeks old now and a ton of fun! 


Eyespy Got Caught Speeding - "Ticket" - Owned by Laurie Zurborg


Eyespy Transmission of Power - "Clutch" - Owned by Romi Hirayama



Ticket & Clutch


A short clip of the boys reunited after being a part for 1 week!


-Romi


Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Saying Goodbye To The Queen, Foster

When Dave and I got married back in 1997, I only had cats.  The deal was I could get a dog when we got a house.  So we got married, bought a house a week later, and the day we moved in I dragged him down to the pound.  We got there 20 minutes before they closed and I was coming home with a dog no matter what.  Foster, a speckled face beauty, grabbed my heart and we signed the papers.

The first night home from the shelter, I gave Foster a big bed, a bunch of toys, and a rawhide.  At some point I thought I should take the bone away from her and she bit my hand, breaking skin.  I was mad of course, I gave her that bone.  That was her first lesson for me.  I needed to become an expert in resource guarding and living with biting dogs.  So I did.

The next challenge we faced was Foster being left alone.  At the time I worked at an engineering firm, 8 hours a day.  Foster was stressed out at home.  She chewed through the drywall to get out and would meet us in the garage wagging her tail.  So we decided to enroll in a group obedience class where they put her on a choke chain and told me to yank her.  Food was not allowed.  Well I failed that class.  I snuck treats in my pocket and wouldn't yank the leash.  So we decided to increase her exercise.  I read somewhere to have her run next to my bike.  So I put her on a leash and off we went in the neighborhood.  We didn't get far.  A few houses down a woman came out of her house with 2 boston terriers barking at Foster.  Foster could never let that go.  So she cut in front of my bike, knocked me down, and I had lots of bleeding wounds.

Dave then decided that maybe off leash hikes in the canyon was what she needed.  The first time we took off the leash, she darted into a huge field of grass, and would not come back.  She ran for probably a 1/2 hr straight and the only way we kept up with her was to seeing her "boinging" in the high grass chasing varmints.

Then there was an "incident" with some kids on skateboards.  She ran out of the garage and chased them for a long time, nipping at their heels.  The kids got tired before she did and luckily nothing happened once she caught up to them.  However I was mortified.  Why did she do such naughty things?

I so loved this dog but I was reaching my wits end.  So I approached Dave and asked if I could quit my job and find some line of work that Foster could come to work.  Dave said yes and if you know Dave, that was a miracle.  I had the animal background from working at vets and doing some dog training for a local trainer. We found a dog daycare in LA to go see first since there were none in the OC.  6 weeks later, Wags & Wiggles was open. 

That did not end my challenges and love affair with Foster.  She was Wags & Wiggles first interview dog.  Clients would come with their adorable puppies and Foster would meet/greet.  Foster was a terrible interview dog.  She would immediately want to snark and put puppies in their place, not ideal.  Her separation anxiety of course would come out whenever I left the play yard to visit with clients.  Yeah, that was Foster having a screaming meltdown. 

Then I discovered clicker training and WOW was Foster good at that.  She was so smart.  A couple clicks and some food and she would do ANYTHING!  Punishment never worked for her or for me.  She would just get mad and take a bite or she would get afraid.  Clicker training really helped me see that what she needed to be a good dog was learning what TO DO and earning rewards for doing the right thing.

Yes, she still snuck into the dirty laundry hamper and chewed the pockets out of my favorite jackets.  She would still get mad if she was crate too long.  And yes, she would still take off chasing things when given the chance.  She just wanted to keep me on my toes.

So the good things about Foster.  She loved everyone!  She would wag her tail and cry for people to pet her.  She always wanted to be with me.  She was a great cuddler in bed, as long as she was in the mood.  She was willing to learn anything as long as it was fun.  She kept my dog pack in line for 17 years.  We always played a fun game and get your feet.  We would pretend to grab her feet and she would bark with delight and pull them away.  The afternoon we put Foster to rest, my mom and husband were there.  Dave caressed her foot, and she pulled it back.  Foster wagged her tail for my mom as her last official act in this world.  Geez I miss her. 

Here is a video of Foster's last playful moment.  This was 1 week before she passed away and she got her mojo up to flirt with my friend's boy dog.  She was queen to the end.  So we had to say goodbye to Foster, who started the Wags & Wiggles craze.  I owe her a lot.




Laurie Zurborg, CPDT, Founder
Wags & Wiggles Dog Daycare & Training Facilities

Monday, March 19, 2012

Five Friendly Faces You Can't Wait To Meet

Wags & Wiggles works closely with several rescue organizations.  However, Laurie Zurborg, Founder of W&W is also on the board of directors for Aussie Rescue So Cal, Inc (a non-profit rescue for Australian Shepherds).  We are just been swamped with rescues lately.  W&W is dedicated to providing love, training, and rehab for all it's rescues until new loving homes are found.  Here are Five Friendly Faces You Can't Wait to Meet!


Ozzie/Harry

Ozzie & Harry, 9 years young, littermates. Both males/neutered, purebred aussies. Ozzie is the black tri and Harry is the red tri. Their previous owner abandoned them at the OC Shelter because he was moving. They are super friendly with all dogs, people & cats. They don't bark and are the most perfect aussies you will find. They are housebroken, extremely loving, pretty mellow, and are happy to lay in the sun for hours.  If you are home though they will never leave your side.  They are currently in the Wags & Wiggles Board/Train Program and on a Weight Loss Plan. They can be placed together or separate (they really will do okay apart).  Both dogs have had a full medical checkup including bloodwork and both are very healthy.  They have already lost quite a bit of weight and are ready for their new home.  These dogs are the most low maintenance friends you could ever want.  Contact Laurie at laurie@wagsandwiggles.com.  Here is their video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=em9-kqMONsQ



Gunnar

Gunnar, he's 1 1/2 yrs old, average size & coat, black/white purebred papered Aussie with no tail. He's male/neutered, housebroken, crate trained, and a complete love! He's very friendly, moderate activity level, friendly with people and dogs. His previous family turned him into rescue because their child was allergic to Gunnar. Gunnar has a great temperament and is a staff favorite. Contact Laurie is Orange County at laurie@wagsandwiggles.com. Please check out his video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Az8KEQp8CE&feature=channel




Sadie

"SADIE" is a 5 yrs old, blue merle spayed female, purebred Australian Shepherd.  She is small around 35 lbs with a thick coat.  Sadie is active, friendly with dogs, reserved with new people but friendly.  She is a quick learner and has had substantial training.  Sadie prefers to be the center of the family's life and would like an active adult home that can spend a lot of time with her.  She may prefer to have another dog in the house too but it's not a requirement.  Sadie was turned into rescue for nipping at children and Sadie should NOT live with children.  Sadie has a big personality and is ready to meet you.  Contact laurie@wagsandwiggles.com.  See Sadie's Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONwpP9j0jCk&feature=channel

  



Name Coming Soon
"No Name Yet", Don't Worry he'll have a name soon.  This fantastic boy was just bailed from the OC Shelter.  He came in as a stray with no owner and no name. He was out of time so W&W came to the rescue to save his life.  He's approximately 1 1/2 yrs old, a purebred black tri male aussie with a high energy level.  He appears to be a friendly happy boy that needs some training and guidance to curb his enthusiasm.  He's currently getting neutered and then will be transferred to Wags & Wiggles.  Contact laurie@wagsandwiggles.com.










Friday, March 9, 2012

When War Begins In Your Household

 Apparently a War has been brewing in my dog pack.  At the end of particularly stressful day, I took my pack for an off leash hike on my property.  I was sharing a great bottle of wine with a great friend.  Then a vicious dog fight breaks out in my pack.  My two lead male dogs, Gumbo and Savior, had waged war.  Both locked on, screaming, blood, the works.  It was terrible.  All the other dogs ran and hid.  It took me a long time to separate them and truthfully if it had been anybody but me breaking it up I think my older male may have lost his life.  Thankfully the punctures they delivered to each other did not need anything but antibiotics.

My husband came running, I'm laying in the rocks with bloody knees hanging onto them to keep them from going at it again.  There is no manual or website you can look at to prepare yourself to separate this kind of fight.  You do whatever you can.  I was only armed with one leash and 2 glasses of wine.  Not exactly what you would hope for to stop a War.  These 2 dogs have never fought before and have lived together their entire lives.

So what now.  The first thing is to take a critical look at how the war began.  My dogs got into a fight over a gopher hole.  They were both digging in it.  My 8 yr old Catahoula Gumbo is a huge resource guarder.  He guards his bed, food, car, crate, toys, and now I can add gopher holes to the list.  Savior, my 13 yr old Aussie, is kind of grumpy.  He growls at dogs for really no reason sometimes and needs his space.  So there was possibly some tension brewing.  The main stressor in the pack though is my pack leader is dying.  Foster,  my 17yr old dog, who founded Wags & Wiggles is passing from old age.  Maybe this week, maybe next month.  We don't know when but the pack is on edge. 

My focus now is what do I do to keep this from happening again.  Make a list of all known contributing factors:

  • relationship issues
  • guarding behavior
  • pack instability
  • excitability over wildlife
  • we recently moved our home
Next, consider some immediate lifestyle changes:

  • Gumbo and Savior are going to be completely separate for at least 2 weeks.  I have several locations in the house to separate dogs.  Both dogs get time with the other pack members.  Both dogs get alone time with me. 
  • Gain mental control over the pack.  No more racing out the back door like lunatics, no more crappy recalls on pack walks, and insist on calm behavior in the house.  This means going back to treat training several times a day and an absolute must on pack walks. 
  • No guarding behavior, period.  No minor growls over bed possession or crate selection or toy play.  The offender gets an immediate down stay or sent out of the room for guarding behavior.
  • All pack members are wearing collars at all times for maximum control.  Gumbo and Savior are on leash during any space transfer times.
Examine trouble areas in your dog's responses to your verbal cues.  Gumbo is on recall rehab.  25 recalls for food treats, every single day.  Just 2 days in and I'm expressed with his rehab so far.  Check out my recall tips later in the newsletter.

So one week in and I can finally tell that harmony is coming back to the household.  We are still very careful in our management.  The house is more pleasant with more rules.  We had all these rules at the old house, but with more space we got lax.  So when you move, take your rules with you! Next month, I will write about how I conditioned the dogs to be back in the same space together. 

Laurie Zurborg, CPDT-KA, Founder
Wags & Wiggles

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

What to Expect From Your Adolescent Dog!

The holidays have come and gone, and many of us were blessed with a fluffy and irresistibly cute addition: a puppy! That adorable little bundle of fur was quickly enrolled in a puppy training class and you thought he was well on his way to being a polite, well behaved member of the family. But wait… is that a yellow stain part way up the drapes? After you unclip Puppy’s leash in the dog park, and he runs around like a maniac for 45 minutes, it still takes a ten-minute game of "catch me if you can" to get him back on-leash to go home. What gives?

Welcome to adolescence! Your sweet, adoring puppy is now turning into an ever-growing fiend full of energy, mischief, curiosity, and raging hormones. The age at which adolescence begins and ends can vary from dog to dog, but it generally happens between the ages of 6 to 18 months and is accompanied by several physical changes. Puppy now has a new set of adult teeth that are capable of destroying any and all of your personal possessions that were accidentally left within reach. His soft, cottony fur has disappeared during one epic shedding cycle (keep a brush and a vacuum handy!) and has been replaced by an adult coat. He has almost reached his full adult height, but for now is all loose elbows and gangly movement. And boy is he moving! During adolescence, many dogs are in a state of perpetual motion that requires super-human stamina to wear out. Exercise will become extremely important as tiring out your canine teen will also save wear and tear on your home (not to mention your patience!). Chewing or digging often occur when a bored or curious dog is allowed the run of the house. Finally, hormones also play a major role in your canine's adolescence. It’s important to talk with your vet and ask them when it’s appropriate to spay or neuter your pet—you can save yourself and your dog such varied experiences as increased indoor urination (females in heat do it to advertise for suitors; for intact males, it's a way of marking territory), dog-dog aggression, and the complete loss of attention span that often accompanies raging hormones.

These physical changes that your puppy is experiencing are often mirrored by sudden changes in their ability to focus and the way that they handle new experiences. The basic obedience training that you’ve been working on diligently suddenly vanishes and you are often left with a dog staring at you and trying to convince you that you never actually taught him what “sit” means. Training your puppy was easy: you taught your pup to eagerly come, sit, lie down, and look up to you with unwavering attention and respect. You were your pup's sun, moon, and stars! But now your dog is developing adult doggy interests, such as sniffing EVERYTHING, rolling in unidentifiable smelly stuff, and chasing squirrels. Socialization also tends to take a downhill turn as puppies hit adolescence. Puppy classes and parties are often a thing of the past and most owners have established a set routine by the time their dog is five or six months old. At home, the dog interacts with the same familiar friends and family, and is walked, if at all, on the same route to the same dog park, where they encounter the same old people and the same old dogs. Consequently, many adolescent dogs become progressively de-socialized toward unfamiliar people and dogs until eventually they become intolerant of all but a small inner circle of friends.

So what can we do to help our dogs survive adolescence? Start by providing your dogs with plenty of exercise and an outlet for his endless energy. If necessary, continue to crate or confine your dog when he is unattended to prevent chewing, digging, or any potty accidents. Spay and neuter your puppy when your vet deems appropriate. Don’t be afraid to take a step or two backward in your training program and patiently re-teach your puppy any commands that he has suddenly forgotten. No matter how frustrated you may be, continue your dog's training! Dogs will continue to learn their entire lives, and the more you put in, especially during the "difficult" periods, the more well-adjusted and content your dog will be in the long run.

Most importantly of all, hang on to your sense of humor and enjoy every stage of your dog's life!

~ article by Amanda Cornell, CPDT-KA and Wags Tustin Dayschool Manager

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Tips and Information on Dog Food!

This post includes information about the different types of dog food available as well as how to transition your dog to a new food, where to buy, feeding guideline suggestions and links to helpful websites for more information.

I am a bit of a health freak when it comes to dog food. It's actually kind of funny, my friends always joke that my dogs get fed better than I do! I am not a canine nutritionist and in no way am I presenting that I know everything there is to know about dog food. Everyone has their own opinion and in no way am I pointing out that one type of food is better than the other. Every dog is different and what works great for my dogs may not be the same result for your dog. This article is just to help educate other pet owners like myself about the different types of pet food available and what to look for.


DRY KIBBLE

Dry Kibble is the most common type of food people feed their dogs. There are many different brands of dry dog foods and they are usually available in every pet related store as well as supermarkets and other big chain stores.

Dry Kibble is the most common type of food fed to dogs because it's easy! You buy a bag, measure out the quantity to feed your dog, put it in a bowl and you're done! What a lot of people don't know is what is in the food they are feeding their dogs.

What to look for? Take a look at the ingredient list on the back of the bag. The first ingredient should be a NAMED meat product. Beef, Chicken, Turkey, Lamb, etc. You'd be surprised that many foods don't even have a named meat product. It just says "MEAT"! Well, what kind of meat? Who knows! It could be roadkill for all we know!

Avoid foods that list corn as the first ingredient. (Corn, whole grain corn, corn meal, ground yellow corn, corn gluten meal, corn gluten, etc)

Avoid foods that have the word "by-product"or "preservatives". By-Product pretty much means that it can include, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, stomachs, intestines, eyeballs, etc! The only 3 parts of the animal it cannot include is hair, horns, teeth and hoofs!

Also avoid some ingredients ending in "meal". Ingredients with these words are low quality and not good for your dogs health. Here are some of the more popular named ingredients to avoid:

ALL By-Products

Common Preservatives to avoid:

BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) - known to cause kidney and liver dysfunction
BHT (butylated hydroxytolulene) - known to cause kidney and liver dysfunction
Ethoxyquin - suspected of causing cancer.
Propylene glycol (also used as automotive antifreeze) causes destruction of red blood cells.


Common ingredients ending in "meal" that should be avioded:

Beef & Bone Meal
Pork & Bone Meal
Blood Meal
Corn Gluten Meal
Fish Meal
Liver Meal
Meat Meal
Poultry Meal
Soybean Meal

You may also want to venture out into GRAIN-FREE foods. A good majority of dogs with food allergies are allergic to GRAINS! Feeding a grain-free diet means you should also feed LESS as there are no fillers and are higher in protein.

Here is a list of some brands that we recommend (just a few, there are many more!):

Natural Balance
Canidae
Natures Variety
Before Grain
Orijen
Acana
Solid Gold
Taste of the Wild

Most of these foods are available locally at petco, petsmart, or other "boutique" pet stores.


CANNED FOOD

Canned dog food is probably just as popular as dry kibble. Canned food is great for finicky eaters as it is more flavorful than dry kibble. Canned dog food is also less processed and usually contain no synthetic preservatives due to the air tight packaging. Canned food also tends to contain higher values of protein, moisture and vitamins. Some premium brand canned foods are actually healthier than dry kibble.

Just like the Dry Kibble Ingredient Labels, you'll want to look at the ingredients on the cans and avoid the same ingredients listed in the dry kibble section.


HOME COOKED MEALS

If you have the time ad money to do so, why not?! Home cooked meals for dogs became quite popular within the past few years after the commercial food recalls.

The most important part of preparing home cooked meals for your dog is that it is a complete and well balanced diet for your dog.

Many people who feed home cooked meals meet with canine nutritionists to develop a diet that will complete and fulfill their dogs needs. It is important that the home cooked diet contains proper percentages of a protein source, carbohydrate source, sufficient vitamins and minerals, and some fat.

I am only aware of one local company that prepares "home cooked" meals for dogs. You can pick up locally or if you live within their delivery range, they will deliver to your home. Click here for Just Food For Dogs


RAW

There are many different types of RAW diets available today. Some commercial RAW foods are usually frozen, dehydrated or freeze-dried.

Frozen RAW Foods usually come in patty form and have a main source of protein, bones, organs, eggs, vegetables, fruits and oils. You just defrost the patties and serve RAW.

Dehydrated RAW foods are in powder form. You add warm water, stir and let sit for 5-10 minutes to hydrate. After it has hydrated for a few minutes, it has a thick stew type consistency.

Freeze-Dried RAW foods can come in powder form like the Dehydrated RAW or in dry patty form. The Freeze-Dried RAW diet is RAW without the moisture. The difference between Dehydrated and Freeze-Dried is the process in which the water is removed.

One of the more common mistakes pet owners new to feeding RAW make is switching the protein source too quickly. Switching it at every meal. You do not have to change the protein source at every meal. They can eat the same raw diet everyday and do fine! Owners who feed raw usually also add vitamins and supplements for a complete and balanced diet.

Some commercial RAW foods we recommend:

Nature's Variety Instinct (Frozen & Freeze-Dried)
Stella & Chewys (Frozen & Freeze-Dried)
Grandma Lucys (Freeze-Dried)
The Honest Kitchen (Dehydrated)
Ziwi Peak (Air-Dried)



***How to transition your dog from one food to another - The transition period is very important. If you switch your dogs food too suddenly, it can give them an upset stomach. The transition period usually takes about 1 week. You will gradually increase the amount of new food to old food until your dog is eating all new food. A good guideline I go by is: Day 1 & 2 - 1/4 portion new, 3/4 portion old. Day 3 & 4 - 1/2 Portion new, 1/2 portion old. Day 5 & 6 - 3/4 portion new, 1/4 portion old. After that, feed all new food.

It may take some trial and error before you find a food that your dog does really well on. What I do when trying out a new food is buying the smaller 5 or 6 lb. bags. If they like it, I'll purchase the big bag, if they aren't doing well on it, I donate it to the local shelter and haven't wasted a ton of money. All of my dogs cannot handle dry foods that are higher than 32% Protein. If its any higher than 32%, it is too rich for them and they get very gassy and have soft stools. Not one dog food is good for every dog. Choose a dog food diet that your dog likes and does well on.


Feeding Guidelines:

Most people look at the back of the dog food bag and use the daily feeding guidelines suggested for their dog based on weight, age, and activity. Like humans, it is much easier for us to GAIN weight than LOSE it! The same goes for our dogs. With Pet Obesity being one of the fastest growing diseases in America, this is something to really think about! There was an article I read from Association for Pet Obesity Prevention that stated over 50% of pets in America are overweight. Studies show that pets that are overweight lose an average of 2 years off their life.

When deciding how much to feed your dog, think about how much exercise your dog gets each day and if your dog gets any additional treats. The more active your dog is, the more energy and calories they burn. You should feed your dog to make sure that they are getting enough nutrients to keep them healthy and fit. If your dog is a couch potato and just lounges all day, you can feed less as they are not using as much energy and not burning as many calories.

How can you tell if your dog is overweight? Your dog should have a waist! You should also be able to feel some ribs when you run your hand across the side of your dog. If you can't feel any rib bones, the dog could probably lose some weight. If you can feel or see fat in places that are unusual - they should lose some weight. (IE: Fat on the chest, fat on the base of the tail, etc) My vet always says "Some rib is better than no rib". If you can see the backbone or hip bones, that is probably too skinny and your dog could gain some weight. Click Here to try the Pet Weight Translator


How often should you feed your dog? There are many different options. A lot of people "free feed", which means they leave food out all the time for their dog. The only problems I see with this method is that your dog isn't 100% potty trained, it's hard to estimate when the dog will need to potty.

Other people feed once a day in the morning or in the evening - If you have a giant dog, I DO NOT recommend feeding once a day. Larger dogs are more prone to bloating and feeding a large amount of food at one time may potentially cause your dog to bloat. There are also specific breeds that are more likely to bloat. (click here to learn more about bloat) Another issue I have experienced with feeding once a day is that the stomach goes empty due to no food intake for a long period of time and can sometimes cause them to throw up bile.

Majority of people feed twice a day. This helps keep the dogs stomach happy! Also, if the dog does a lot of activity after breakfast, they can re-charge with dinner instead of running on empty until the following day.

Some people feed three times a day, mostly common with puppy owners or with large breed dogs. Puppies are growing and normally eat more during puppy hood than when they are adults. Puppies need the extra nutrition to grow. Large dog breeds get fed 3 times a day to prevent bloating.


How to help my dog lose weight without starving them?! - There are many different options besides lowering the amount of food intake to help your dog lose weight. You can search for types of food that have less fat and calories. You can supplement part of their meal with vegetables or fruits. For example, If you normally feed 1 1/2 cups twice a day, feed 1 cup + 1/2 cup of green beans twice a day. Your dog is getting the same amount of food, but taking in less calories. You could also make your dog work for their meals. Use their meals as treats for training sessions. So they are getting their meal, but also learning and being more active. (A great way to build a stronger bond too!)

You will also want to keep track of treats. A lot of people don't realize that the extra couple treats your dog gets throughout the day may be part of your dogs weight issue. If your dog has training class at night, you don't want to fill them up with treats in class and then feed them dinner when you get home. Instead, try using their dinner as the treats in class, or give them less for dinner.


Romi's Personal Experience & Advice:

Dry Kibble: I like to change the protein source of my dogs' diet every 3-4 months. If I was feeding a kibble with a main protein source of Beef, I would switch to Fish, Duck, Chicken, etc for the next few months. Right now my dogs' food rotation is: Before Grain Buffalo, Acana Pacifica, Canidae Pure Sky. I like to rotate the protein source so that they get a variety throughout their life and also help reduce any chances of developing a food allergy.

Canned: I occassionaly add a small amount of canned food to their dry dog food. Canned food is rich, and my dogs can't handle rich! So if I add canned, I only give small amounts to keep the gassyness to a minimum!

Home-Cooked Meals: The only time I feed home cooked meals is when my dogs have an upset stomach. I feed a bland diet of boiled chicken and rice for a few days. I would love to feed home-cooked meals more often, I just don't have the time to prepare meals everyday.

RAW: I use Frozen Pattys as well as Dehydrated & Freeze-Dried RAW. The one thing to remember about Dehydrated and Freeze-Dried Powder form RAW diets is that it is better to have the consistency be a bit more soupy than thick. There may be some extra hydration in their bellys once they eat it, so if the food is already more soupy, it is less likely that it will hydrate more inside.

My Feeding Schedule: I have always fed puppies 3 times a day. From the day I bring them home to about 8 months of age, They get fed 3 times a day. Once they are older than 8 months of age, I switch them to twice a day for the rest of their life. I have found that most dogs really enjoy having a set schedule. I had tried many different feeding schedules and the one I am using now works the best for my dogs. It didn't at first, as they weren't used to it, but with some patience and a "too bad, so sad" attitude, they are all on board and enthusiastic to eat!

What do you mean "too bad, so sad" attitude? Well, a lot of dogs who are not fed on a schedule usually will not eat right when you put the food bowl down. When I first started this with my first dog, I would put the bowl down and wait 5 minutes. If she didn't start eating, "too bad, so sad" I picked up the bowl and she would have to wait until her next meal. By the next day, she knew she had to eat it right away otherwise it would be taken away and she would have to wait until the next meal time. You'd be surprised how well this works, even with the pickiest of eaters.

My last suggestion: Stay away from foods and treats made in China or ingredients that come from China. There have been many recalls on products originating from China that have made dogs sick and even caused death.

Websites that I recommend with more information:

There is a very helpful "Dry Dog Food Review" site. They rate dog foods by stars (1 being the worst and 6 being the best) and explain their reasoning of why they rated the food. Click Here to View the Dog Food Analysis Website

Another great website that explains how to read ingredient lists and what the labels mean along with other helpful tips and advise! Click Here to View the Dog Food Project Website

The Whole Dog Journal also has tons of great information on food.(Paid Subscription) Click here to view The Whole Dog Journal


Online Websites we recommend to buy Premium Pet Food from:


Hope this was helpful!

-Romi :)

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Celabrating the life of a dear friend!

Today we would like to celebrate Henry the Leonberger. Henry started coming to Wags as a young pup in October 2007. He was a regular at Wags "The Original" in RSM and then at Wags Tustin. He has long been a loved member of our family.


Henry was always great with puppies and shy dogs, even though he was quite a large boy. He was gentle and kind to everyone. He loved his family, protected them as a true leonberger would, and loved his trips to the ocean. Unfortunately, bone cancer took him from this world too soon.



We salute you and love you dear friend. Our heart goes out to your family.



Henry Aguerre 8/18/2007 - 1/16/2012

<3















Friday, January 6, 2012

Bassett Love!

We wanted to share a special note we recieved recently from some of our favorite clients, Annie the Bassett and her mom Carole. Annie is quite the character and we love her sweet personality and how she is always so quick to make us laugh!

Dear Laurie and the staff of Wags, Annie has been part of the Wags and Wiggles family since she was 3 months old. In two months she will turn eight and although she is more apt to passively watch all of the activity now instead of joining into the playful antics of the younger crowd, I know that she loves going to see all of you and her canine friends each week. As someone who works some pretty long hours, it is comforting to know that she is not home alone and she is able to have the attention she so deserves for being such a wonderful and loving companion to me.

When you added the van pickup/drop off service a few years ago, you provided a customer service option that has allowed me to not worry about breaking the speed limit to get to Wags before you close for the day to pick her up. For that I am eternally grateful. Because of this service I learned about the magic ramp that allows her to get into a vehicle and with her short legs and heavy weight (Bassets definitely aren’t ergonomically built), it was becoming a problem getting her in the car. Now we have a “Wags ramp” and because she is so familiar with this type (she doesn’t particularly like new situations unless they are of the food variety), it was an easy transition to get her to use this to get into and out of our personal car.

Although you have helped her through some of her health challenges, I recently had one of my own. When I found myself unexpectedly transported via ambulance to a hospital, my main worry was not my own health but what was going to happen to my Annie who was home alone that day. A quick call to Wags set everything in motion for the van driver to go to the house and pick her up along with her food and bed. Even though she had just gone through a minor surgery of her own your staff said “no problem” in taking her in for boarding and care, and her medication was also picked up and administered. Best of all was that I knew there would be no trauma on her part because she knows and loves the driver Drake and this would Just appear to be another day (and night) at Wags, her second home.

All of you are so wonderful and although we should tell you this throughout the year, I want to let you know that Annie and I love and appreciate all you have done for us for the past eight years. You are a special group of canine servants who truly love and know the value that they have on earth. We are so lucky that you and your husband took on this venture and have given us this service.

Have a very wonderful holiday season.
~ Carole and Annie

To Breed or Not to Breed?

You love your dog, and so do we! Some of us love our dogs so much that we may even dream about having more, “just like him!” However, breeding your dog is a monumental undertaking, and should not be made lightly. As we mentioned in an article a few months ago, breeding dogs should not be a hobby or a “one-off” event.

Making the choice to breed your dog should involve extensive research on your dog’s breed lineage, history, genetic and health issues, temperament and performance abilities. Once all that has passed muster, are you ready and willing to not only be responsible for the prenatal veterinary care, but are you willing to be responsible for the puppies’ placement and livelihood for the rest of their lives? It’s a lot to think about, and rarely are there dollar signs at the end of the tunnel.

This graphic illustrates that decision-making journey in excellent detail. Follow the arrows to navigate the path of decision making.